| Quality is high at Drunken Poet. |
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Source: Sarasota Herald Tribune Publication Date: 09-JUL-08 Byline: JACK WINNER CORRESPONDENT |
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The menu at Drunken Poet is small but of very good quality. Starters include standards like Shrimp ($8.95)
or Vegetable ($5.95) Tempura, Chicken Satay ($5.95), Spring Rolls ($3.95), Seafood Spring Roll ($6.95), and
for those fond of soybeans, Edamame ($4.25). An evening's special was Green Papaya Salad ($9.95), a Thai staple. It arrived rather dramatically, a sizeable portion served in a large stone mortar, the salad mixing finely julienned papaya and carrot. Diners have a choice of spiciness based on a scale of one to five. A four enlivened the salad and created a delectable interplay among the coolness of the papaya, the tartness of lime and the heat of the peppers. There were some tomatoes included, too, but these didn't really contribute to the success of the dish. A Seaweed Salad ($5.25) didn't quite match the performance of the papaya but was nevertheless refreshing, with sesame seeds providing a light crunchiness. The Drunken Poet offers a number of soups. Tom Yum Goong ($4.50) uses lemongrass and lime for a tart, invigorating taste. It is robust, too, with generous amounts of mushroom and shrimp swimming in the broth. The number of main courses at Drunken Poet is small but intriguing. Tamarind plays a key role in a number of them, as in Gai Bai Teuy ($15.95), which wraps marinated chicken in a bai teuy leaf (also known as bai toey, or pandanus leaf) and serves it with a homemade tamarind sauce. Tamarind also figures in Duck Tamarind ($19.95). Although crispy duck is standard on many Asian menus, Drunken Poet's version proves memorable for several reasons. First, the skin is deliciously crispy and crunchy. Pan-fried green onions add another layer of crispness and a hint of bitterness that perfectly complements the slightly sweet tamarind sauce. Although tamarind is sour and tart in its natural state, the sauce for theduck is reminiscent of currant or black cherry sauce, with an exotic edge. Altogether, the preparation is a delightfully different way to eat duck. Among the seafood, tamarind appears again in Scallop Tamarind ($21.95). It doesn't show up, however, in Seafood Paradise ($23.95), where the dominant flavoring is instead basil. In this dish scallops, shrimp, calamari and mussels are sauteed, then covered with a rich, dark sauce full of basil leaves. In cuisines like Italian, basil is minced and used as an accent, but in Thai dishes like this one it assumes a bold presence, its sharp, minty flavor making an unexpected pairing for the seafood. The night we were there, dessert consisted of Sticky Rice with Mango ($7.95). This sticky rice is black and has a slightly sweet nutty flavor that complements the juicy mango. A thread of coconut milk over the fruit adds yet another dimension of taste -- together the three create a flavor that is both subtle and satisfying. Service throughout the evening was gracious, prompt and attentive. REVIEW DRUNKEN POET CAFE 1572 Main St., Sarasota. Call 955-8404. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Barrier-free access. Major credit cards. |
From the Kitchen
Awards & Recognition
- Sarasota Herald July 2008
- Creative Loafing
